So, no one has mentioned any of these as far as I can tell.

The Crew Motorfest - sort of a competitor to Forza Horizon (FH is PCand Xbox only… The Crew is also on PS)… it’s an open world ish always online style game. Some say it had better physics and closer to sim than simcade when compared to FH… it worked better out of the box with my peripherals (wheel, pedals, shifter)… bonus: the prequel, The Crew 2 (which is a bit older and has a different setup) is $0.99 on basically all the platforms right now.

Dakar Desert rally - kinda rocky launch and might still be buggy… not sure on that front… but it’s kind of an ambitious game that no one else was making. Basically driving offroad through the desert from GPS waypoint to GPS way point in a huge open environment (this is called “rally raid”) in a variety of vehicles - cars, “cars” (really super trucks), big trucks (imagine racing a dump truck across the desert at whatever 120mph), motorcycles, side by side, atv. More simcade than sim in terms of driving feel. They,re not developing it anymore (in terms of new content… game breaking bugs probably get fixed) but there’s a decent amount of content there… a little context that they kinda over promised to an extent and under delivered. Victim of the recent industry-wide layoffs for sure. So it got kinda panned. Definitely not the GOAT, but maybe worth it when on sale if it sounds at all interesting to you.

Pretty sure when I counted, the numbers were off. Not even 13 people in the supposed last supper shot.

I’ve had several brands. I’m sure none were privacy respecting. But beyond that they’re all crap. They all break down and end up requiring near constant maintenance. They also don’t do a very good job of vacuuming.

Better off getting a half decent vacuum (extra points if it uses bags because… Bagless is fucking stupid) and for little clean up jobs get a manual sweeper like some restaurants use.

Destiny 2 right? They’ve had BattlEye on there for quite a while now. Kinda sucks but there’s no way around it.

WW I was over a hundred years ago. My point stands that only considering 15 years is a very myopic view on the region.

Can THIS conflict he traced back to biblical times? (By the way, it may even be selling yourself short to stop at Moses… but that leads to the question of how back do you draw the line of relevance…) no of course not. Realistically, while I’m inclined to look back to the late 1800s and early 1900s, there’s no one alive today that was alive at that time. 1 or 2 generations later can you expect everyone to forget the events of the past? Maybe not.

It’s a really classic example (maybe THE classic example) of violence begetting violence. Unfortunately the violent tendencies and hatred are institutionalized. It’s clearly not an easy problem to solve, but I’m fairly certain that violent terrorist attacks against civilians is not in the running for a solution.

EDIT: just to add, going back a thousand years takes us to the time of the crusades, during and after which there were Arab attacks driving out non-arabs… and Arab attacks against other Arab factions (not blind to the fact that all Arabs are not a monolithic group).

Going back a little further you have a history of violence and discrimination against the Jews and Arabs (and pagans and other people) by the Roman’s. You can see how hard it is to find a stopping point in the history of violence in the region.

So yes while the CURRENT conflict probably only tracks back a hundred or so years, the history of conflict in general in the region goes back thousands of years (probably 4 thousand years but im not sure there are even stories, much less even somewhat reliable historical accounts that go back much further than that).

Yes surely 1917-1948 was a time of peaceful bliss…

I mean I’m not gonna waste my time trying to educate you on this but you’re wrong. Go read some books, watch some lectures, listen to some podcasts.

15 years is a woefully short time frame to look at in a conflict that goes back hundreds if not thousands of years…

Theres also something called URL cleaner. It just literally cleans the URL AFAIK (no virus total or anything). Ita available on f-droid and presumably the play store.

Had to scroll pretty far to find this comment…

Depending on how in depth you want your firewall, packet inspection, etc to be and your internet access speed, you may want a commercial grade router. You can also probably use an old PC and add a dual gigabit NIC to it and load up opnsense or pfsense or some other router/firewall distribution. From there, add a stand alone switch and a standalone wifi AP (or router in AP mode). The reason I bring up using a commercial device or an older desktop is because packet inspection, filtering, etc at line speed on a gigabit connection won’t be possible with a lot of low powered devices.

I used to do this (was using an old Intel core i5 second gen with added RAM and a dual port gigabit NIC) but it was a lot to keep up with. I have since moved on to an Asus router (RT-AX86U) with the AsusWRT-Merlin software package. The only functionality I really lost was suricata for IDS. The AsusWRT distro comes with some proprietary stuff (that I think you can turn off) but it’s also very “open” in terms of just running Linux underneath. This means you can set up things like VLANS, use iptables, etc.

AsusWRT-Merlin adds some niceties (including a nice add on system that will expand into web based interfaces for certain things you might usually do from command line, better/expanded firewalling, and even adguardhome installer for DNS-based malware/spyware/ad blocking… kinda like pihole but lots of people like it better). The maintainer of that package corresponds frequently with Asus (to the point that some of his stuff is merged back into the official AsusWRT at some points).

I can confirm that the model I mentioned above is able to do all the firewalling, QoS, adguard DNS filtering, etc at gigabit speeds. It also has some sort of IDS and a few other protections, but they are part of the proprietary bits (Asus licensed via TrendMicro I believe).

I remember the inventor of the Behmor machine saying that the smoke suppression was required by regulation of some sort… ao yeah they are kinda necessary in a sense.

Like I said, do whatever you like, but I advise against roasting coffee indoors without an exhaust fan that dumps the exhaust outside, at minimum.

Yes it would, with regard to ventilation.

During coffee production of both flavored and unflavored coffee, production employees become exposed to dangerous VOCs resulting in irreversible lung damage (Ref. 1). The most hazardous VOCs released from flavorings and naturally from roasting coffee beans are diacetyl and 2,3-pentanedione. Exposure to even small amounts over time or large concentrations over a short period of time can have drastic health effects (Ref. 2).

https://www.sentryair.com/blog/industry-applications/chemical-solvents/diacetyl-hazards-coffee-roasting-industry/

(Yes I know they’re trying to sell you air filtration systems or whatever… but they reference several scientific studies in their literature)

Yes I used to roast at home several times a week on a Behmor machine. There’s a reason all the at-home machines (and commercial machines for that matter) have smoke suppression…

Edit to add that I started with a popcorn popper (which is the usual entry into the hobby) then built a roaster out of a heat gun and a flour sifter before I went on to get the Behmor. All of my roasting was done outside or in the garage with fume hood and exhaust fan.

Do whatever you like but there’s a reason there are things like occupational safety regulations and the like.

Not to be a downer, but you’re gonna get a lot of smoke roasting beans in your electric oven (gas would have an exhaust to the outside). That smoke really isn’t good for you to breathe in either. Prolonged exposure will lead to “popcorn lung”. It’s also going to make your stove very dirty in the inside in short fashion. Also, you’re gonna melt some plastic colanders if you drop coffee beans into them right out of a 400-500 degree oven. Not to mention that plastic + heat = not good (even without the melting)

If you want to try roasting coffee beans at home once or twice on the cheap, you’re better off “pan roasting” them outside on a camp stove or something similar if you don’t have an exhaust fan right above your stove that connects to outside.

Specialized at-home electric roasters exist and aren’t that expensive. Certainly cheaper than smoke mitigation.

Oh I missed that small detail thanks.

Is your oven electric or gas?

Honestly, even when my TV mount can reach two studs, I still attach a 2"x3" to the studs, then attach the mount to the 2"x3". Reasons:

• Studs aren’t always going to be centered on the mount. Yes I know some are meant to handle this, but it seems less than ideal.

• The 1.5" or so gap you get between the mount and the wall because of the 2"x3" is useful for cable management.

• Seems way stronger (haven’t tested but it just feels that way)

• if you need to move the TV left and right, you’re just putting more holes in the 2x3, not the wall (yes I know some mounting brackets allow for a level of left-right adjustment, but not all of them do)

You’ll need 2-2x3 (or 2x4… but 2x3 is cheaper and plenty strong enough) that is long enough to span between 2 or more studs. 1 is for the top of the mount. 1 is for the bottom of the mount. Attach them to the studs so they are level and parallel and the spacing between the 2x3s is the same as the spacing between the spots on the TV mount that where the bolts/screws go through.

Note: you have to use structural wood screws or lag screws that are of sufficient length to go through the 2x3, through the drywall, and attach sufficiently to the stud in the wall. You’ll likely want 3.5"-4" structural wood screws or lag screws. It won’t hurt to also use flat washers so the structural wood screws/lag bolts hold even better and don’t pull themselves through into the 2x3.

Good luck! Have mounted several TVs for myself and others (up to 92" screens) and haven’t had one fall off yet!

I mean they have their own app i guess. I believe if you enable remote access then the video streams from your home internet to your device if it’s paired with an NVR. Not 100% sure though.