O man, this is one of my jamb’s!

1. Conduit: not required, you can run through walls with cable, but!!! Any time I open up a wall for any reason I run conduit. I chose to run metal so I can run power in the future. Running “smurf tube” or PVC is perfectly ok for networking. The big advantage of conduit is that you can leave a pull string and/or fish new cables easily until its full

2. YES!

• Sharpie before all other tools ALWAYS LABEL THE CABLE BEFORE YOU PULL IT. If you dont you will be testing later on with more expensive tools to figure out which cable is which. A Sharpie is cheep.
• Side cutters/cable cutters, or utility scissors (my recommendation) these are needed to cut cables, strip off jackets, and cut kevlar/thread or plastic core. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1718739-REG/jonard_tools_es_1964_electrician_s_scissors.html
• RJ45 Crimp tool, you can do pass through ends or not thats up to you, but get good ones they are worth the investment. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1043092-REG/eclipse_tools_902_354_network_tool_bundle.html
• Drywall Saw https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-in-Drywall-Saw-with-Plastic-Handle-725/100647777
• Fish tape or glass rods (I prefer fish tape) 25’ or 50’ are fine for home use.https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1718757-REG/jonard_tools_fts_50_steel_fish_tape.html
• Lightweight cordless drill, I like Milwaukee but there are plenty of options https://www.homedepot.com/p/M12-FUEL-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Hammer-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-w-2-Batteries-and-Bag-2-Tool-3497-22/320268525
• Heavy duty corded drill (hammer suggested) https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-7-8-Amp-Corded-1-2-in-Variable-Speed-Reversible-Hammer-Drill-DW511/100037000
• Paddle bits, get at least one long one so you can get through wall top-plates https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-High-Speed-Wood-Spade-Bit-Set-13-Piece-48-27-1520/305537862 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Daredevil-1-in-x-16-in-Spade-Bit-DLSB1013/203274545
• I also like wood boring bits https://www.lowes.com/pd/BLACK-DECKER-Marples-14-Piece-Woodboring-Drill-Bit/1003008984
• Pull string, every time you pull a drop, pull some string so you can run more lines in the future! https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-8-in-x-6500-ft-L-210-lbs-Strength-Poly-Pull-Value-Blow-Line-in-a-Bucket-PL132B/313821648

3. Use interior walls as much as you can. Very often you can find closet walls and interior walls that have almost no electrical in them and have no insulation which makes running cable very easy. I would avoid exterior walls as drilling into the top plate near the roof line is a tight space and running fish tape with insulation is a pain in the butt.

Example of a decent interior wall that should go from basement to attic even on a multi story house.

I like to use low cost bike hooks to keep my cables off the ceiling in the attic that way im not walking all over them they are very affordable but are not great for long pulls as they drag on the cable jacket. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Vinyl-Coated-Steel-Screw-In-Bicycle-Hook-25-lbs-21407/206585761 real J Hooks that are designed for cable are $$$ https://www.homedepot.com/p/ICC-3-4-in-J-Hook-ICC-ICCMSJHK22/204517525.

I ended up installing 2x 3" PVC conduits from my basement rack through a closet wall into the attic. From there I run cable through the bike hooks until I get to the wall I need to do the drop in, and then I drill a hole in the wall top plate and drop my cables down that wall.

I always try to drop my cables along side a vertical stud so I will cut into the wall BEFORE i run cable and do so directly adjacent to the stud. I dont install the box until the cable is run, but I use the cheap new construction boxes https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-18-cu-in-Blue-PVC-New-Work-Electrical-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B118A/202546986 and just cut the nails off rather than use more expensive “old work” boxes https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-14-cu-in-PVC-Old-Work-Electrical-Outlet-Box-1-Gang-B114RB/100404027

Some drywall screws in the side of the box going into the stud are more than enough to secure it.

When cutting the box in I find the stud (use a magnet, never trust a stud-finder) measure to the middle of any existing boxes or outlets. I then measure that hight out about about 1" from where I expect to find the stud, and I cut in the direction of the stud with my drywall saw. Once I hit the stud I pull out the saw, and I align the box center to the cut, and the edge to the vertical stud. I trace the outline of the box using a pencil and then cut along that line. If you do it this way it should end up level, the same height as other outlets/boxes, and be permanently secured so it wont fall out like some of the cheap low voltage cutin’s that cable companies LOVE.

My advice. Call a local electrician or small business networking company; get some quotes for what you are looking for. Have 2 cables run from the network interface box to where your router/firewall is in addition to a second location in case you ever need to expand the network setup in you home. The cost is well worth not worrying about pulling cables. Install CAT6 boxes in almost every room you foresee a cable ever being run. Good luck! I recently rewired my home with CAT6 from the fiber interface box and am now enjoying 900/850mb everywhere in my home.

I live in a single-level house in the US, also built in the 1960s. I don’t have a basement, but I do have a crawlspace under the house. I had never ran cables before but I found it pretty straightforward to run cables through the crawlspace. My attic is very very small and nothing runs through it - all the electrical cabling and HVAC ducting is under the house.

I’ll leave you with some miscellaneous tips.

Use CMR-rated pure copper CAT6 cables. Don’t use CCA (copper clad aluminium). I’ve had good experience with trueCABLE on Amazon; both their CMR-rated cable and their outdoor / direct burial CMX-rated cable. I use the latter for outdoor security cameras.

You’ll want some low-voltage old work brackets (I bought these ones from Home Depot, ~$2.50 each), some faceplates (I usually use Legrand On-Q ones for ~$0.80-$1 each), some Keystone jacks (I used TRENDnet ones, ~$30 for 25 of them). Try to use keystone jacks where possible - only use RJ45 connectors if you really need to. With the jacks I linked to, you don’t need a punchdown tool; they’re tool-less.

The low voltage brackets have little holes in each corner. Place the flat part against the wall, ensure it’s level, around the same height as the power outlets, and NOT over a stud. Stick a pencil in each little hole and wiggle it a bit to mark the corners. Cut a hole in the wall with a drywall knife (I usually create a few starter holes with a drill) and install the bracket. In my case, I used a long drill bit inserted into the hole to drill through the floor/subfloor into the crawlspace and ran the wire through there. I didn’t use conduit.

Secure the cables. I use these multi-cable staples to secure them in the crawlspace. If you’re running cables through the crawlspace, don’t be lazy and just leave them sitting on the ground :D

Use spray foam to fill holes to ensure drafts and bugs don’t go through it. I use this fireblock one.

Get a cheap Ethernet cable tester with a screen. I’ve got this one that cost $35. Apparently it’s no longer sold, however it looks like there’s clones of it. If there’s an issue with any of the wires in the cable, it shows you which wires are wrong and if they’re crossed (connected to the wrong pin) or not connected at all.

Don’t bother with CAT6a. CAT6 is easier to deal with and supports 10Gbps with cable runs up to 55 meters, which is more than enough for residential unless you live in a giant mansion. The cable I linked to can go a bit longer an still maintain 10Gbps speeds.